Cenaduria Elvira Opens Permanent Oakland Restaurant
Elvira Varela's Cenaduria Elvira, now in a permanent Jack London Square-adjacent space, serves rare Jalisco-style tostadas raspadas and tacos dorados.
Elvira Varela has opened a permanent restaurant for her Jalisco cooking just north of Oakland's Jack London Square. The new Cenaduria Elvira spot makes her ultra-thin, extra-wide tostadas raspadas, a rare regional item from Zapotlanejo, widely available to the public for the first time.
According to a firsthand report from Eater, Varela previously served her food from her East Oakland home kitchen. Her signature tostadas raspadas are hand-scraped and sun-dried masa tiles described as light as air. The report states she goes to great lengths to source this specialty ingredient and maintain its quality in Oakland.
What to order
The tostada raspada is the essential dish, available with various toppings. Each one is oversized, crispy, and light. The report described one topped with shredded pork for $19, along with cabbage, queso fresco, and refried beans. The house-made salsa macha, with crunchy bits at the bottom of the jar, is a recommended addition.
Cenaduria Elvira's tacos dorados are also highlighted as a master class in frying. They are stuffed with options like picadillo or requeson and cost $3.50 each. The reviewer noted an ethereal quality when the textures combine and advised using the house-made hot sauce with restraint.
A small pozole is available for $13. It can be ordered with boneless pork or various cuts like tongue, snout, ear, or feet. The dish comes with finely shredded cabbage and large, tender hominy kernels.
| Item | Base Price | Key Options |
|---|---|---|
| Tostada Raspada | $19 | Shredded pork, cueritos (pickled pork rinds), stewed chicken |
| Taco Dorado | $3.50 each | Picadillo, requeson (ricotta cheese), potato |
| Small Pozole | $13 | Boneless pork, tongue, snout, ear, feet |
What to drink
The micheladas are described as S-tier and massive. Patrons can choose the beer for their michelada. The reviewer opted for Modelo Negro in a Tajin-rimmed, chilled mug.
Vibe and tips
The restaurant is now in a permanent space, making Varela's cooking more accessible. The reviewer suggested pairing a lunch at Cenaduria Elvira with an Oakland Ballers baseball game, noting the stadium is less than ten minutes away. This combination was highly recommended before the baseball season ends.
